Bloody Perfection
SA’s only professional surfers and local Seaford ripper Dion Atkinson e-mailed me early in the week recounting his latest journey into the SA desert since returing home from his latest euro adventure!
Enjoy.
Well, it all starts sitting at home looking at Buoy weather and seeing a good offshore swell heading our way. I pack the car, grab a few mates and tee up Fredo to get a few happy snaps when we reach our destination. We drive all night dodging kangaroos and arrive at the break at 5am, roll our swags out for a quick 2 hour nap and wake up to dead low tide with pretty evil looking slabs….
I get out there, but it was a little raw with such a low tide. It was a full moon so the tides were huge! I came off a few times and got driven hard, straight into the bottom. I came in and gave it a little bit more time for the tide and it was starting to turn on! I got a few good ones early, then in a pretty good sized barrel the foam ball got the better of me and I started getting rag dolled….
I covered my face thinking my board might cop me, but I got hit in my ribs, leg and toe’s! The pain in my toes was different. The pain was sharper and I knew I cut myself pretty bad, so I got in straight away! If you know the waters of South Oz you’d know its scary enough surfing out there even before you’re pissing out with blood! I Hobbled onto a rock to look down and see my three little toes hanging off to the side with the webbing totally split and all I could see in the cut was the white of my bones and tendons. I also had no feeling in my middle toe at that point! I had to army crawl up the cliff to get back to the car, wrapping my foot in my mates t-shirt to get up the cliff.
I lifted the shirt off and strapped my foot tight just so the webbing didn’t keep splitting. Fredo took me to Pt Lincoln hospital where I got 17 stitches that have to be in for 12 days. A bit of rest and hopefully they’re as good as new. I can hardly hobble, I’ve even got a walking stick!! Haha








